Sorry, I should have been more specific. I've discovered that any number of CSS menus will work well enough in modern browsers AND the iPhone, as long as you have code in your <head> to id the iPhone.
What I was looking for was CSS parameters for the menu. I figure somebody had fiddled around with the tedious business of CSS parameters and found some width and height combinations that look good on both the iPhone and the desktop or that accordion to fit font and string length.
I've also got some AJAX menus that will work (anything but Flash, actually).